Luxury watch collecting is shifting towards vintage-inspired design, smaller proportions, independent makers and secondary markets
Aug 13, 2026 | By Florence Sutton
Trends within the luxury watch world are constantly evolving. To an enthusiast, a watch is so much more than something to tell the time: they represent quality craftsmanship, exquisite design, a long history and, for some, a valuable investment. While classic designs remain popular and highly sought after, collectors today are embracing new trends as they continue to evolve, giving them plenty to get excited about whilst offering fresh inspiration for their next addition.
Even though trends may change, the appeal of high-quality, luxury watches never fades. From a growing interest in smaller styles and vintage-inspired designs to new sustainable materials and independent, less well-known brands, the latest trends offer plenty for collectors to explore.
Vintage Style Watches Are Now Trending
We’ve seen in recent years big luxury watch brands constantly try to invent completely new designs, and it’s been fairly popular. However, what we’re now seeing, thanks to an increase in popularity in re-used, vintage fashion and interior design, is luxury brands increasingly looking to their archives for inspiration.
Brands like Rolex, Cartier and Omega have been releasing styles that have distinct nods to past styles. We’re seeing watches borrow patterns, colors and key design features from products designed decades in the past, with modern re-inventions and construction. This is particularly popular with collectors, as they may not be able to get the original vintage pieces but can still choose to own a small slice of a brand’s history with the vintage-inspired pieces.
The Secondary Market Becomes More Popular
Usually, luxury watch collectors or enthusiasts like to buy their products straight from brands or luxury watch dealers. There’s been this feeling of pride that comes with being able to get your hands on the latest release – but this approach is changing.
As demonstrated by the emergence of sites like Search the Watch Market, enthusiasts are increasingly turning to the secondary market for “like new” or “pre-owned” luxury watches. Why? Because collectors are beginning to understand that this is a smart way to make good watch investments. You can obtain watches that are no longer in production, or you can buy relatively new ones for less money. In either case, it presents long-term investment opportunities, but it’s also a way for collectors to complete their collections.
For too long, the luxury watch market has shunned the idea of second-hand purchases – but not anymore.
Smaller Thinner Watches Are More Desirable
Big oversized watches have dominated the market, including the luxury watch market, for years. After years of being the standout trend, smaller watches are now taking off. Buyers are deciding to opt for smaller faces and thinner-strapped models. Brands have followed suit and are now realising slimmed-down models of existing styles or creating whole new styles around the trend. At Watches and Wonders, the world’s leading watch trade show, tiny watches were seen everywhere, with most brands turning up with small watch designs, all under 30mm, to show to the public.
The appeal isn’t just about making the watches look and feel more delicate or feminine; plenty of the smaller sizes still had a rugged or chunky design. It’s more about making the watches more elegant and closer to the proportions of past designs and styles, leaning into the vintage style trend.
It isn’t just about how it looks, but smaller watches are more practical, which buyers and collectors seem to be favoring. Smaller watches are more comfortable to wear and also sit closer to the wrist, so they move around less. Whilst appealing to the trend, luxury brands are increasingly finding ways to make the watches smaller and thinner without sacrificing any performance, making them surprisingly technologically advanced.
Buyers Care More About Value Retention
For most collectors, there’s more to just buying luxury watches as keepsakes. They buy them as good future investments. But what most collectors are understanding more and more is that watch investments are much more nuanced. Rather than seeing watch investments as a good idea that will make them money in the future, collectors are becoming more interested in a watch’s value retention.
A luxury watch hasn’t got to go up a lot in value for it to be a financially attractive investment. A lot of buyers will still invest in something that keeps its value that you are able to wear and show off, whilst most things that get worn will only decrease in value – you just have to keep it in good condition.
Choosing the right luxury watch does matter if investors want it to retain or make money. Factors like brand reputation, rarity, condition and paperwork all matter significantly more to the future value of each watch than just how much you spend in the first place. So saying “buying a luxury watch is a good investment” is much too simplistic when you consider everything above.
Independent Watchmakers Seen As More Favorable
Whilst they still remain desirable, buyers are starting to look beyond the top luxury brands and are starting to favour smaller, lesser-known luxury brands. Collectors are becoming more interested in buying watches from independent brands rather than big names, who produced watches in far smaller quantities.
The appeal comes from a trend that’s being seen not just in watches but across fashion and even in interior design: people have a desire to be seen as more unique. It’s fairly simple: if you buy from a smaller, independent brand, someone else is far less likely to own, let alone be wearing, the same watch. Collectors also enjoy discovering new stylish watches from brands other than the obvious luxury names and being the one who’s copied.
While trends continue to influence designs and demand, the appeal of luxury watches shows no signs of slowing down. From smaller, more delicate designs and vintage-inspired pieces to investing in the work of independent watchmakers and understanding the nuances of watch investments, today’s trends demonstrate an interest in timeless design and an increased desire amongst collectors to expand their knowledge and look beyond familiar names. There has never been a more exciting time to be a watch collecting enthusiast.
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